How To Change A 3020 John Deer Tractor 24 Vote To 12 Vote
Tractor Articles
Converting from 6 Volts to 12 Volts
Wiring a Ane-wire Alternator
By Chris Pratt
People ofttimes call u.s. request questions near how to rewire their tractor for a 12 volt conversion. We accept a multifariousness of answers depending on what kit they purchased. Some kits are so consummate that they provide a new wiring harness, while other tractors don't accept kits at all, just individual mounts, an alternator, and a ballast resistor. The fact is, since nosotros can't see the tractor and how it's currently wired, it's hard to exist of help beyond what the instruction sheets say. Well even if in that location is no kit with instruction sheet and harness, converting to a 12 volt alternator on about old tractors is actually quite simple, and if you wait at your wiring, y'all can effigy it out. If your machine doesn't accept a kit, buying the individual parts and making your own wiring changes is very likely self explanatory. I'll explicate why.
One-time tractors had no fluff, like modern contraptions, in their wiring. Thankfully, almost were made before the days of computers, sensors, even true voltage regulators, some didn't fifty-fifty have an ignition as we recollect of information technology, simply a magneto that was totally discrete from the tractor's wiring. Have the post-obit wiring diagram as an example. This is for a Allis Chalmers CA, simply frankly, applies just fine to every one-time Farmall, Ac, Case, JD and many others. Your wiring diagram may be a lot more than complex due to having a voltage regulator as many later machines had, but, when you lot convert, that's coming out and volition never be used again.
Before I go on, just a couple of cautions on the actual piece of work, if you don't follow them, it might best to take a pro help you. Remove the battery before you practise anything, disconnect information technology, pull it out, set it in a safe identify. The second is, when you are working around batteries, remember that they tin explode when you get a expressionless short (similar dropping a wrench on them). They make safety shields that encompass your confront merely like the kind you use when you run a chain saw. Well worth the investment to have one in the shop to wear when working around batteries.
Here is the diagram we are going to use, let'due south simplify information technology right off the bat. Come across the wire notated as 2, it runs to the "F" on the generator and to some sort of resistor to control that generator F last. Merely cross it out. Totally unnecessary with the i wire alternators we sell. What was that wire? Well, in the "old" days, the only voltage regulation was to make the generator start to charge more than when the lights were on, otherwise, it was preset to put out a consistent low voltage of but enough to maintain or ordinarily had a setting to recharge the battery after starting and heavy bleed. That wire went to the field whorl of the generator, to bump the charging up depending on how much footing the light switch said to requite information technology. The alternator has no use for that, it has it's own internal regulator.
Then lets delete some more since that makes information technology simpler. Accept the generator and cutout shown and white them out. Yep, gone. In their place goes the alternator, and that one wire going to the ammeter, at present is the one wire coming from the alternator. At this point, let'due south think most the ammeter. Outset, you can't run to the aforementioned side, since with the 12 volt conversion, nosotros are going to use negative footing rather than positive footing that all the one-time tractors used. And so the drawing needs to change to swap connections from one side of the ammeter to the other. If you lot don't bandy the two sides, the ammeter is going to show belch when you are charging, and accuse when you are discharging. The second matter about the ammeter is that it's probably rated for 30 amps. This was plenty sufficient for the old 6 volt generator arrangement, it probable could not produce plenty amperage to blow that ammeter upward. Not true with the alternator. It can produce 60 amps and more depending on conditions. I think I'll break the paragraph here, because it deserves information technology'due south own.
Take a step dorsum and think what happens when your old wires, which have been rubbing against metal surfaces for the terminal 60 years finally break through. If that is a hot wire, that is, something from the hot terminal of the bombardment or generator, it creates a expressionless short and attempts to draw an infinite amperage. The alternator is going to ramp to it'south maximum and beyond, attempting to meet the draw. Equally long as null blows in the path, information technology's just keeps ramping up. Well that petty 30 amp ammeter is first inline. It'south going to fry, and it might even grab burn down. This is not something I like to think about, since often the instruments are located about where the gas tank is. This deserves some protection considering frankly, you don't really want your alternator to keep doing information technology's job in that scenario. If you'd prefer non to upgrade to a sixty amp ammeter, the way to protect it, is to put a fuse between the alternator and ammeter. Even if you did upgrade ammeter, it'south still a good idea to put some protection into the arrangement. Any auto parts shop will have a modern spade fuse loop with #10 wire that you tin wire in easily. Then put a 30 amp fuse in the fuse block. Now the alternator can't go to information technology's maximum and your ammeter will exist protected. Just to exist complete, though this article is only virtually the alternator, the battery tin can do the same thing, ramp up to fairly high amperages in a shorted situation, so putting something fusible on the bombardment is something to consider, since if the fuse blows, the battery will attempt to provide the amperage (yes, I've been accused of worrying too much).
Now let's effigy out what to do with the battery. Y'all have to discover a battery in 12 volt, that will fit in the case. Then yous take to bandy which pole goes to ground. We want the minus to go to basis in this system and the plus to be the "hot". That means the plus will now connect to the solenoid or starter switch. Finding the right size bombardment is piece of cake, you just haul the sometime 1 into the auto parts store and allow them exercise the figuring. The only issue there, is that since yous desire the poles reversed, if you lot are going to use the same bombardment cables, yous need to think virtually which side of the bombardment those poles are going to be on. I personally adopt to change the cables out at that fourth dimension, and then I don't care, because I'm going to cut sizes to road correctly for each.
That'southward it... if yous have a magneto. But if you lot accept a distributor ignition, there is i more footstep. The 6 volt coil will piece of work, simply yous need to swap the minus and plus sides, and cutting the voltage downward from the 12 volts it's at present receiving. The wire running from the ignition switch to the coil, will need to be cut and a ballast resistor put in line. Ballast resistors are common and inexpensive and come in typical sizes like i.5 to 3.0 ohms. You have to make up one's mind the amount of resistance you lot demand for your organisation to know which to purchase. Given that your are going to have about 12 volts coming in from the ignition, you have to put one or more resistors inline to reach the voltage the erstwhile coil expects. Generally, that means you want to cut the voltage coming from the ignition switch to six or 7 volts, because that is what the coil used to exist getting. You practise this by taking your VOM and measuring the voltage later the resistor is hot. The reason you want to do that, is because resistors alter their readings when they heat up, and to become a adept reading, the ballast resistor needs to estrus up so you'll know your actual running voltage. If you want to cheque the unabridged system, measure the voltage on the other side of the coil going to the points. It should exist down to iii.5 to four.0 volts due to the ringlet having some resistance. (Notation: in the diagram below, Air conditioning didn't show the coil because the diagram covered both benefactor and magneto systems, no ballast resistor is required if information technology's a magneto, at that place is no voltage to the magneto and the resistor would only lessen the connection to ground from the kill switch).
Taking all the in a higher place into account, here is how I scribbled upwardly my copy of that wiring diagram, attempt it yourself on your wiring diagram, it will first to brand a lot of sense and soon, you'll be designing your ain tractor's conversion.
Recap:
one. The alternator wire will be a number 10 wire run to the ammeter. Must reverse the poles on the ammeter. Before hooking information technology upwardly, use a spade fuse inline between them.
ii. If it's a benefactor ignition (not a magneto system), wire a ballast resistor between the ignition switch and the coil, remembering to reverse the coil connections (swapping plus and minus). Try a 1.5 or 3.0 ohm resistor and measure the voltage on the far side of the coil. You are probably looking for between 3.5 and 4.0 volts. If you mensurate the voltage on the most side, it should be nigh six volts afterward going through the anchor resistors. 
3. Install a 12 volt bombardment that tin fit in the bombardment box, run the negative to ground and the positive the starter switch/solenoid.
four. Replace lite bulbs with 12 volt equivalents. Some may be special sizes of which we carry several, merely others are standard bulbs and can be purchased at any NAPA. The 6 volt ones will burn out about instantly when turned on.
five. The resistor low-cal switch would accept had a wire running to the generator. This wire is now unused. It should be insulated so it tin can't curt to anything, necktie-wrapped up and put out of the way in case y'all ever opposite the procedure, or just completely removed.
6. The six volt starter can continue to be used equally is, but, it will fire out if the tractor isn't in top melody and is hard starting. You never want to crank and creepo a 6 volt starter run at 12 volts, continue the tractor in tune. If the tractor is tuned well, it should fire up immediately and the starter will not be put under undo stress and oestrus up.
Other Considerations:
Now there are all kinds of other circuits involved as tractors became more circuitous in the 50s. Fortunately, by the 60s and worse 70s, when the floodgate of complexity opened, the tractors were already 12 volts, and those machines don't demand updates. Something you lot meet with 50s tractors, is a more complex voltage regulator, which, while they are removed with the alternator, you have to trace out the right wire to apply to go back to the ammeter (hint, this will oft be connected to the B terminal on the regulator). Other circuits like accessories, are down stream from the conversion piece of work, and you lot probably need do zero with them if they are rated for 12 volts.
One exception I tin call back of, is that yous may find a lighting circuit straight run from the quondam voltage regulator, and you'll take to decide where tap into your 12 volts to feed those lights. Many systems just tap off the plus side of the ammeter to requite a hot line to the low-cal switch. Just a reminder, the lights should be fused separately with an appropriately sized fuse smaller than the principal fuse you put on the alternator line. The reason for that, is that exposed light connections can easily get ripped off while you are using the tractor, and it's best to have divide fusing, so you tin can withal drive the tractor dorsum to the shop when it happens. Almost always, yous'll already have a lighting fuse in the circuit, only once you've converted to 12 volts, you can swap out the fuse for 1 rated for lower amperage. This is because as the voltage goes from half dozen to 12, the amperage goes downwards for the aforementioned lighting load (this keeps Ohm's Police happy). If you had a 20 amp lighting fuse with 6 volt, you might attempt a 15 amp fuse in it'due south identify as there is no reason to hold off blowing the fuse if there is a short.
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How To Change A 3020 John Deer Tractor 24 Vote To 12 Vote,
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